A
one and a half hour boat trip from Whakatane took us to White Island, an active
volcano named by James Cook because of the white “cloud” that lingers over the
island. The hard hats and gas masks seemed unnecessary as we transferred to a dinghy
to access the island – we were wrong. With an appearance more suited to a
sci-fi film set and lunar landscape, this is an island that nature continues to
remodel.
Yellow sulphur fumaroles, steam vents, mica-laden streams… And then
the gaseous air hit us and we quickly donned our masks. Lunch on the sun-drenched
boat deck, pilot whales, and a spectacular boat ride home, all rounded off an
incredible day.

Rotorua
is known for the rotten-eggs smell that pervades the town, something we’d
previously experienced in Iceland. On the edge of town is the Te Whakarewarewa
thermal valley at Te Puia, where the fun begins. Heading towards the geysers,
we came across bubbling mud. Strange as it seems, it’s fascinating watching the
“plop, plop, plop”, as the mud gently bubbles and bursts, occasionally
splattering the adjourning bushes with a greyish-brown coating. And then to the
geysers themselves that were far more impressive than our gale-lashed
experience at Geysir in Iceland. The one downside is the relentless streams of
coach parties passing through; however, this was a great reminder of our
decision to see NZ self-drive, giving us time to linger rather than be herded
around. The rest of the valley which was deserted as the coach parties only
stick to the main area. More pools of bubbling mud, little pools of steaming
water, and the occasional sensation of the ground quivering.
However,
it’s possible to come across bubbling mud and thermal springs all around the
countryside. We visited a much larger and deserted mud pool off State Highway 5
south of Rotorua where we also located a geocache. Don’t know what a geocache
is? There’s a separate blog entry that covers caching.
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